JAPAN

While most of the ancient forms of clothing presented in this blog have been lost in time, Japanese traditional clothing is still an important aspect in modern Japan. Its scarce evolution is preserved as a reflection of this nation's history, even though it is only used on special events since from the 20th century Japan adopted western dresses.

FASHION: COSTUMES

At first, Japanese fahion was heavily influenced by Chinese culture. During the Nara Period (710-794) dresses started to be seen as a form of expressing social status and being able to cover your entire body was a sign of a higher rank in society. However, it was in the Heian Period (794- 1185) when changes were introduced. The basic outfit consisted in a short-sleeved shirt called kosode plus loose pleated trousers named hakama, for men, and loose skirts for women. 

Hakama and kosode

                    

Later, the kosode evolved into the well-known kimono, which became the most popular garment. With the kimono, people started paying more attention to fabrics and a new method, based in cutting them in straight lines so the sewers didn't have to worry about the shape of the wearer, was adopted, turning into a form of art.Colour combinations were used to show status and they varied through seasons. Having a kimono was a privileged situation and they were often inherited by children from their parents. Typically, these dresses were made out of linen or hemp, but nowadays they are mostly fabricated with silk, synthetic fibres or sateen. They are decorated with natural designs, including animals, flowers or sea waves. 

A special order needs to be followed in order to put on a kimono, starting with white cotton socks called tabi, a skirt that wraps arround the body and then an inner kimono (nagajuban) tied with a koshihimo belt. Once this is done, the kimono is put on a tied with an obi, a colourful decorated sash. Men's tend to be simpler and duller than women's. 

Even though kimonos are rarely used now, lots of different types can be found. The number of crests determine the formality and these gowns can be very complex to wear, since up to 12 layers may be put on (junihitoe). Usually, this one was only exhibited by women of the Imperial Court. Among the various designs, the yukata (an informal kimono worn in summer) and the iromuji (a plain kimono used in tea ceremonies) can be highlighted. 

Lady with a junihitoe

Aside from this, it is worth considering samurais' role in fashion. During the Edo Period (1603-1868) the country was ruled by a warrior dynasty and fighters were identified by the colours of the feudal domain they belonged to. Samurais wore kimonos, but they were covered over by a sleeveless shirt with winged shoulders called kataginu. This was combined with hakama trousers. 

Jacket-like clothes ( hanten and haori) might be added to these outfits in order to face the cold winter.

Finally, zori and geta sandals were used (although this last one was designed to walk on snow, hence those wooden heels).

                                                            Geta sandals

BEAUTY, COSMETICS AND JEWELLERY

The Japanese traditional hairstyle consists in two "wings" at the sides of the head, and a topknot or ponytail at the centre. This look is achieved by shaping the hair with wax and decorating it with hair accessories such as combs, hair sticks and ribbons. In the Edo period, flowers were used and it became very elaborated. Women used to shave their temples to create a widow's peak. Of course, this wasn't the only hairstyle worn: during the 7th Century kepatsu, a Chinese-inspired hairdo, was used, and during the Heian Era (794- 1185) floor-length hair was popularised (taregami).

 

Regarding men, they wore a haircut called chonmage, still used by today's sumo wrestlers, although the hair was shaved to the middle of the top of the head.

Man with chonmage

As for beauty, applying makeup to one's face was regarded as an individual and private act. Japanese women wanted to obtain a porcelain-like skin tone, so they used white face powder, which it is believed to have been introduced by a Buddhist priest who wanted to impress the Empress. They also shaved their eyebrows and repainted them higher on the forehead with a black pencil. Another common practice was blackening their teeth (ohaguro) when they were married. Red lipstick was made from safflowers and this colour was applied as well on the fingernails and cheeks.

 

Geisha makeup followed the same palette (white face, thick black eyebrows) but their lips weren't fully painted, as only the centre of the lower lip was coloured. Reddish tones were used at the corners of their eyes too.

With respect to jewellery, it wasn't commonly worn, as luxury was shown by the quality, design and colour of the clothing. However, some hanging items were carried and tucked into the obi, becoming valuable ornaments. Women put on kanzashi (hair sticks, combs, flowers, hair ties...), made out of ivory, tortoise shell and metals like shibuichi.

Kanzashi

These days, traditional Japanese look can still be appreciated in Kabuki actors.

                                    Kabuki performance                                                             Kabuki actors