CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICAN CIVILISATIONS: MAYAS, AZTECS AND INCAS

Around 300 B.C.E. several complex civilisations inhabited Central and South America. Among them were the Aztecs or Mexicas, Mayas and Incas, although some others could be also highlighted, like the olmec and zapotec cultures.

FASHION: COSTUMES

Even though these three iconic societies were separated in time and space, similarities in their clothing can be easily found. For this reason, some general characteristics must be pointed out. 

Firstly, garments were decorated according to the social position of the wearer: the higher the status, the richer the adornments, which consisted in intrincated embroidered patterns, feathered accessories and golden or shell beads. Besides, clothing was dyed in bright colours such as green, purple, blue, red or yellow.

Mayan women wore a huipil (rectangular piece of clothing) that was tucked into a skirt, whereas Mayan men used to put on a loincloth , sometimes accompanied with a sleeveless shirt in order to cover the torso in colder areas of the land, or a short skirt held with a belt or knot. These outfits were mainly fabricated with cotton and some cloaks were made of animal skin.  Moreover, it is important to specify that every village had their own unique design and it was prohibited to wear a different one.

With regard to Aztecs, it was common for men to combine a loincloth called maxtlatl with a cloak-like cloth called tilmatli, which could be pinned at one shoulder. Mexica women also used huipils or blouses with a long skirt. Fringes could be added at the ends.Outfits were made mostly of cotton or ayate fibres, and linen was reserved for the wealthiest citizens. It is worth considering the strict rules established by the Aztecs in relation to fashion which if disobeyed could be punished with death: some garments, ornaments or colours could only be worn by the elite. Aside from this, military outfits were based on the military group they belonged to (jaguar, eagle,etc).

As for the Incas, men wore loincloths with a sleeveless tunic called uncu and women put on a dress fastened with a sash called cumbi. Moreover, they put on a cloak or a poncho. These clothes were made of wool and it was a way of showing status depending on the animal it came from . Baby alpaca wool was as valuable as gold and guanaco wool could only be afforded by the nobles and the Inca (the emperor). Commoners used llama wool and cotton (in the coast). Geometric patterns representing human and animal figures or chequerboard designs decorated these fabrics, as well as tassels, brocade or feathers of tropical birds.

Another traditional garment was the quechquemitl, used by women.

Sandals were made of leather or fibres.

BEAUTY AND COSMETICS

Mayan people used to grow their hair long and tied it back in a high ponytail. On the other hand, Aztecs continued following strict rules: women could shave their hair or wear two braids ( a style named neaxtlahualli) that may be painted with purple highlights, men's hair reached the length of the neck and was completed with a fringe and warriors wore a type of hairstyle known as temillotl.

Other practices were carried out in order to reach beauty standards. Mayas used to practise body modifications enlogating their heads and flattening their foreheads as well as altering their profile's shape by using prostheses. Their teeth were shaped to accomplish a sharp look and green jade and black obsidian could be encrusted in them.They also painted their skin with red, white, blue or black pigments. Scarification and tattooing  were other forms of body decorations.

Aztec women could use yellow earth to paint their faces and both Mexica and Inca warriors and priests used colours on their skins.

JEWELLERY

Overall,  one of  the most important forms of jewellery were headdresses. They were very elaborated and represented animals (jaguar, snake, falcon,etc) a well as gods. Quetzal feathers were added to made them flashier. Aztecs used to wear headdresses made of gold and shaped in a disc form which represented the universe and the sky. Incas, however, liked weaving these accessories, so wool tassels hanged down from them. They designed feathered headbands too. 

In addition, it is worth mentioning Aztec masks , which were made out of wood, obsidian, coral, shell, turquoise or even real human skulls.

Rings carved in natural shapes such as birds, reptiles or flowers, gold bangles, necklaces or clay bells were other types of jewellery forms. Incas put on big earrings of gold or silver in their earlobes (orejones), Aztec warriors showed off by using lip plugs that grew in size and shape according to their victories, and Mayan people used to wear piercings and nose and lip plugs, and they frequently utilised jade, which had a religious meaning since it was associated with eternity, animal teeth or claws or bones.

Emperor Moctezuma II headdress                                                                Pair of Inca earrings