THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE

In 395 C.E. the Roman Empire was divided in two halves. The Western Roman Empire fell in 476, however the Eastern Roman Empire, also known as the Byzantine Empire, lasted until 1453, when the Ottoman Turks conquered the capital, Constantinople.

Located in an strategic place between three seas (the Mediterranean, Aegean and Black Sea) and two continents, the Byzantine Empire became the most important system in Middle Age Europe.

FASHION: COSTUMES

The Byzantine empire inherited the traditional fashion of the Roman Empire and was heavily influenced by the Middle East's trends. 

Firstly, clothing covered from neck to ankles since high necklines and long sleeves were used, and it was really colourful as a consequence of the relations between the Empire and the East (red, green, blue and yellow often coloured the attires, and purple was reserved for royalty). In contrast with other cultures which we have taken a look at in this blog, Byzantines didn't elaborate laws that restricted people from wearing certain garments (only some clothes were exclusively for the Emperor) : it was more of a matter of price.  

Byzantine costume consisted in three basic pieces:

1. The tunica: it was worn by both genders. During this time it wasn't called tunica but chiton, even though it didn't resemble to Greek chitons. Men used to wear it along with trousers, and above this combination they put on the dalmatica.

2. Palla or stola: the palla or stola was a long dress designed for women which was made out of linen, wool or, in case you were rich, silk. It could be decorated with embroidered gold patterns and a belt was usually fastened below the chest. The upper classes' were more luxurious than those of the middle class, with sewn jewels distributed along the fabric. Royals also used to combine gold threads with purple dyes, which were very expensive. Above the palla another piece of clothing was put on: the palludamentum.

3.Dalmatica: The dalmatica was made of linen, wool or linen. It was a rectangular shaped tunic with short sleeves that reached to the elbows and was highly decorated with sewn jewelled patches and silk gold brocades that were alternated with silver, pearls and gemstones. As time went by, its length extended and reached the floor, ending up looking similar to the Turkish caftan. Nowadays, the dalmaltica can still be seen in clothing worn by priests.

Aside from these costumes, Byzantines used additional clothes such as:

• Palludamentum and cloaks: The use of cloaks was a common practice among the people in the Empire and therefore many different designs were produced. One kind of palludamentum often used was a cloak that reached to the hips and was cut into a trapezoid shape. Generally, cloaks were divided in two groups according to the shape they were cut in and were fastened at the right shoulder with a brooch called fibula. Rectangular cloaks were used by the lower classes until the 12th century. Semicircular ones (chlamys) were more formal and were cut assimetrically in order to make it easier to reach the sword, which was carried on the left.

    

• Tablion: a rectangular or diamond shape panel which was attached to the chlamys or palludamentum. It was an expensive item since it was heavily decorated with jewels and embroidered at the borders. 

            

• Superhumeral: This article of clothing was only used by the imperial family. It was a heavy collar that had gems all over the gold-like material it was made with.

         

 

• Lorum: it was a large cloth of silk or gold adorned with jewels which was wrapped around the body to indicate the status of the wearer.

        

• A short shirt called juppe.

          

All the pieces mentioned above used motifs consisting in Christian symbols (eagles, vines, peacocks, doves and fish), flowers, dots, fretwork and geometrical shapes. Wealthy women could add little bells to their dresses.

Moreover, leather shoes were jewelled among the upper classes. Commoners simply put on sandals or slippers, and soldiers used boots which reached the knee or the calf.  

COSMETICS, HAIRSTYLES AND HEADWEAR

In this Cosmetics section we can highlight the development of lotions and wrinkle-preventing creams, as well as hair strenghteners and hair dyes. Women outlined their eyes, painted their lips and whitened their faces, just like Romans did. However, Byzantines weren't prone to applying much makeup, since they followed modest principles which didn't include the use of makeup.

Regarding hairstyles, men used to get their hair cut straight and short (this was called a Caesar cut). Women didn't wear specific hairstyles, but it was usual for them to braid it and arrange it in different shapes, mostly placed on top of their heads with pins or ribbons. Monks' hair was grown long.

These looks were completed with different types of hats, since headwear was a common item in Byzantine outfit. Monks covered their heads with hoods that were sewn to the palludamentum and the clergy wore zucchettos, a rounded hat that varied in colour according the religious rank of the wearer. This cap is still used today by Church members and even the Pope. 

Byzantines also adopted turbans and veils made of cotton or silk and, in fact, when Ottoman Turks invaded the Empire, they started using them too.

Last but not least, it is worth mentioning the Byzantine crown, which was a diadem decorated with lots of precious stones. The Empress' had two or three long strings of pearls that hunged from it at the front.

JEWELLERY

Jewellery became really important in Byzantine society. Even the Emperor Justinian dedicated a section on his famous work The Justinian Code addressing this topic in order to clarify some rules people had to follow when wearing these items: every man was allowed to wear (at least) one gold ring, but sapphires, emeralds and pearls were saved for the Emperor.

Garnets, beryls, sapphires, amethysts, rubies, lapislazuli and corundum were some of the precious stones that took the form of necklaces and collars, rings and heavy bangles, and large or waxing moon-shaped earrings.  These objects became popular as a result of the prosperous trading relations between the Byzantine Empire and the Silk Road, specially with India and Persia. Along with this gems, Byzantines used precious metals (silver, gold) that could be found in the mines located in the borders or the Empire, and colored beads. 

 

Goldsmiths shaped these materials with different techniques. Usually, they rounded and polished them and used to enamel them as a final step. However, filigree work can also be found, as well as cameos with images of Saints and Biblical scenes. Christian crosses were popular decorative motives and women could cover their hair with nets of pearls.